Why trade up your choice of paint?
(AUGUST 26TH, 2016
With so many brands and product options available it can be daunting decision choosing the right product for the job in hand. Here’s a quick guide to some of the core paint ranges Brewers Decorator Centres stock and the benefits of trading up to the superior product.
https://www.brewers.co.uk/know-how/article/trade%20up%20your%20paint%20choice (CLICK IMAGE BELOW)
With so many brands and product options available it can be daunting decision choosing the right product for the job in hand. Here’s a quick guide to some of the core paint ranges Brewers Decorator Centres stock and the benefits of trading up to the superior product.
https://www.brewers.co.uk/know-how/article/trade%20up%20your%20paint%20choice (CLICK IMAGE BELOW)
Trade Paints vs DIY Paints (Retail)
16th June 2015
http://www.brewers.co.uk/news
Trade Quality Paint Explained!
Using quality paint is the first step to producing a quality job, something that every decorator will know. But here at Brewers we are often asked why a trade quality paint differs to the DIY versions and so we have put together this brief reference guide to explain!
Superior Ingredients
First and foremost, the formulation of trade paints is generally superior. Combining more higher grade ingredients such as titanium dioxide (white pigment) and colourants (used for tinting) than DIY paints.
They can also include specialist ingredients such as zinc phosphate or red oxide to provide additional superior properties, including anti-corrosion, not readily found in DIY paints.
Superior Performance
Superior ingredients means superior results, opacity being one of them and coverage being another. The higher opacity of trade paints means less chance of the substrate grinning through whilst the improved coverage results in the paint going further.
In addition, the paint job’s life is extended as trade quality paints will usually hold their colour and wear better than DIY paints.
Superior Knowledge & Skills
Superior ingredients require superior painting knowledge and skills for application. The experience and knowledge held by a qualified decorator means they are able to judge each job’s unique situation and advise the client which paints are most suitable. They are able to adjust paint consistency to take factors such as substrate type, porosity and drying conditions into account.
Controlling these paints takes the skills and tools of a trained decorator who will achieve the absolute best results and exploit the full potential of the paints capability.
The combination of all of the above means a superior trade quality finish to be proud of!
http://www.brewers.co.uk/news
Trade Quality Paint Explained!
Using quality paint is the first step to producing a quality job, something that every decorator will know. But here at Brewers we are often asked why a trade quality paint differs to the DIY versions and so we have put together this brief reference guide to explain!
Superior Ingredients
First and foremost, the formulation of trade paints is generally superior. Combining more higher grade ingredients such as titanium dioxide (white pigment) and colourants (used for tinting) than DIY paints.
They can also include specialist ingredients such as zinc phosphate or red oxide to provide additional superior properties, including anti-corrosion, not readily found in DIY paints.
Superior Performance
Superior ingredients means superior results, opacity being one of them and coverage being another. The higher opacity of trade paints means less chance of the substrate grinning through whilst the improved coverage results in the paint going further.
In addition, the paint job’s life is extended as trade quality paints will usually hold their colour and wear better than DIY paints.
Superior Knowledge & Skills
Superior ingredients require superior painting knowledge and skills for application. The experience and knowledge held by a qualified decorator means they are able to judge each job’s unique situation and advise the client which paints are most suitable. They are able to adjust paint consistency to take factors such as substrate type, porosity and drying conditions into account.
Controlling these paints takes the skills and tools of a trained decorator who will achieve the absolute best results and exploit the full potential of the paints capability.
The combination of all of the above means a superior trade quality finish to be proud of!
Water-based and Solvent-based coatings - the facts
26th August 2014
http://www.brewers.co.uk/news This is a big talking point in our industry at the moment and we wanted to bring you the facts about the differences between water-based and solvent-based paints so that you can make your own mind up! For more information please speak to your local branch or contact the Brewers Help Desk on [email protected] or 0845 504 5040. |
Water-based coatings:
1. Can be thinned with water, if necessary, plus your tools and equipment can be cleaned in water, reducing the need to use thinners.
2. Are lower in VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds ) than solvent based paints and therefore have less odour and are generally more user friendly.
3. More extensible i.e. they stay softer making them able to cope better with movement in the substrate.
4. Have faster drying times in normal circumstances.
5. Often more durable with better resistance to mould, and chalking.
6. Glosses have less of a sheen, but keep sheen level throughout its time.
7. Have good colour retention.
8. Less block resistant than solvent based paints (i.e. when two painted surfaces come into contact they are more likely to stick).
9. Less tolerant of adverse weather conditions e.g. humidity during the drying period which can lead to extended drying times.
10. Make ideal primers as they possess good resistance to heat and abrasion.
11. Provide excellent adhesion
12. In most cases these coatings often cost less than the solvent equivalent, and require no additives, thinners or hardeners.
13. Waterborne primers are useful where solvent primers can react with the existing substrate materials or coatings
14. If used in spray equipment, its easily cleaned out with water in most cases.
Solvent based coatings, also known as oil or alkyd based paints:
1. Should be thinned with turpentine, white spirit or other thinners, as required.
2. Higher levels of VOC than waterborne coatings resulting in greater odour, flammable and less kind to you and the environment.
3. Tougher finish than waterborne, easier to clean but tend to become brittle on ageing.
4. Glosses have a higher gloss level, however after 15-18 months approximately this will have dulled down, often to less than that of its waterborne equivalent.
5. Excellent block resistance (less likely to stick together when two painted surfaces come into contact, once fully dried)
6. More tolerant of adverse weather conditions e.g. humidity during the drying period.
1. Can be thinned with water, if necessary, plus your tools and equipment can be cleaned in water, reducing the need to use thinners.
2. Are lower in VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds ) than solvent based paints and therefore have less odour and are generally more user friendly.
3. More extensible i.e. they stay softer making them able to cope better with movement in the substrate.
4. Have faster drying times in normal circumstances.
5. Often more durable with better resistance to mould, and chalking.
6. Glosses have less of a sheen, but keep sheen level throughout its time.
7. Have good colour retention.
8. Less block resistant than solvent based paints (i.e. when two painted surfaces come into contact they are more likely to stick).
9. Less tolerant of adverse weather conditions e.g. humidity during the drying period which can lead to extended drying times.
10. Make ideal primers as they possess good resistance to heat and abrasion.
11. Provide excellent adhesion
12. In most cases these coatings often cost less than the solvent equivalent, and require no additives, thinners or hardeners.
13. Waterborne primers are useful where solvent primers can react with the existing substrate materials or coatings
14. If used in spray equipment, its easily cleaned out with water in most cases.
Solvent based coatings, also known as oil or alkyd based paints:
1. Should be thinned with turpentine, white spirit or other thinners, as required.
2. Higher levels of VOC than waterborne coatings resulting in greater odour, flammable and less kind to you and the environment.
3. Tougher finish than waterborne, easier to clean but tend to become brittle on ageing.
4. Glosses have a higher gloss level, however after 15-18 months approximately this will have dulled down, often to less than that of its waterborne equivalent.
5. Excellent block resistance (less likely to stick together when two painted surfaces come into contact, once fully dried)
6. More tolerant of adverse weather conditions e.g. humidity during the drying period.
Dampness & Condensation
Article below from Summer 2014 edition of The Professional Painter & Decorator magazine
Geoff Mackrill of Coo-Var explains how to tell damp from condensation and which coatings need to be used.
Dampness and condensation are common in a wide range of properties; Housing Associations, leisure centres, schools, industrial premises and domestic homes all suffer to a greater or lesser extent.
There are several methods to control the problems, but ideally we need to discover the source of the problem. Then it can be treated using the correct control method, let's say an anti-damp or anti-condensation coating in a 'belt and braces' approach to the problem. We hope the information given will help you to understand the issues involved.
Visual Analysis
Look for the following symptoms and sketch them on a plan -
After this look at the outside of the building and compare the results. Does the patch of the damp in the bedroom correspond with that cracked gutter, or even that patch of weeds blocking the water flow in the gutter. Or the tide mark corresponds to a wall where the soil level is higher... potentially over the damp proof membrane (DPC). Again make a sketch, it may just help you to realise what is the root cause of the problem.
Concentrate on the following:-
Measuring
Ideally test for dampness using a conductivity 'pin' meter, again note the readings on the sketch and compare with readings from an unaffected area. If you do not have access to a meter then it is possible to test for damp vs condensation by taking an unbroken layer of polythene sheet and taping it to the wall, sealing it completely with a good strong waterproof tape on all four sides. Leave overnight before examining - ideally leave it for a few days; condensation on the inside means there is a damp problem either within the wall or penetrating from the outside. No condensation inside the plastic means we simply have a condensation problem; the condensation is unlikely to form on the plastic because of the insulating layer of air inside.
Analysis of the problem
Rising dampness is indicated by readings which start in the skirting board and continue up anywhere between 150mm and 500mm (approx 6" - 12"); usually there is a fast cut off from a high reading to zero very quickly. there may well be a tide mark corresponding to this cut off.
Penetrating dampness can occur at any height, look for a patch of high readings around the defect.
Condensation is often accompanied by mould growth, black or green in colour, with no real sign of any dampness within the wall, i.e. low meter readings. There are often other key pointers; condensation often occurs around windows, especially single glazed where the temperature drop is large.
Cold spots often give rings or patches of mould; often caused by an isolated defect in solid walls. Chimney breast staining is caused by salts and chemicals being slowly washed through the walls as a result of moisture in the chimney. the moisture can come from poor flashing, poor chimney stack pointing or leaking back boilers. Condensation in the chimney itself is usually the result of a lack of ventilation in the flue.
Belt and braces approach
Firstly, if there are any doubts at all about the problems encountered then before you spend a small fortune on repairs, have the dampness assessed by an expert.
If you have carried out the above analysis, are confident it is a simple condensation issue, consider the Anti-condensation paint. An insulation type coating which helps remove the cause of condensation; it keeps the wall warmer and hence prevents the condensation in the first place. Please note insulation coatings generally have a micro texture and can be over coated with decorative paint which will not affect their Anti-condensation properties. the micro texture, which is barely visible, means you cannot repair the wall in patches; you must coat the whole wall or whole sections of wall. This prevents you simply moving the problem to another patch on for example, an external wall.
On areas prone to penetrating damp, consider a moisture absorption coating, the Anti-damp paint, which will absorb moisture and then release it when the conditions are dryer. Both types of product generally have a film protective additive to stop any further mould growth within the coating. Once you've solved any long term issues around the chimney stack and as part of our 'belt and braces' approach, apply two coats of Anti-damp paint to the chimney breast, even the surrounding walls. This also has the added benefit that it has integral stain blocking properties and will prevent the staining by salts and chemicals returning at a later date.
Both of these products can be painted or wallpapered over as required.
Summary
We would always recommend analysis to discover the root cause of the problem, but, both Anti-damp and Anti-condenstaion paits are a useful tool to have in the battle against dampness and condensation. Even in these modern days where 'one coat of 'one paint does everything' , they should continue to be an integral part of every decorators emergency kit.
Coo-Var technical services can be contacted on [email protected] or by phoning 01482 328053 and selecting the Technical Services option.
There are several methods to control the problems, but ideally we need to discover the source of the problem. Then it can be treated using the correct control method, let's say an anti-damp or anti-condensation coating in a 'belt and braces' approach to the problem. We hope the information given will help you to understand the issues involved.
Visual Analysis
Look for the following symptoms and sketch them on a plan -
- Water leaks from kitchen, central heating system or bathroom.
- Water stains, discoloured paint or paper.
- White salts on the surface or pushing the paper off the wall. This is called efflorescence and the salts are mobilised by water and crystalise on the wall surface.
- Mould
- A tide mark, often a wavy line along the wall.
- Chimney breast stains, on which storey?
After this look at the outside of the building and compare the results. Does the patch of the damp in the bedroom correspond with that cracked gutter, or even that patch of weeds blocking the water flow in the gutter. Or the tide mark corresponds to a wall where the soil level is higher... potentially over the damp proof membrane (DPC). Again make a sketch, it may just help you to realise what is the root cause of the problem.
Concentrate on the following:-
- Leaking or blocked gutters, downpipes or drains.
- High external ground levels relative to the DPC.
- Cracks or pointing issues in the chimney, has someone made off with the lead flashing?
Measuring
Ideally test for dampness using a conductivity 'pin' meter, again note the readings on the sketch and compare with readings from an unaffected area. If you do not have access to a meter then it is possible to test for damp vs condensation by taking an unbroken layer of polythene sheet and taping it to the wall, sealing it completely with a good strong waterproof tape on all four sides. Leave overnight before examining - ideally leave it for a few days; condensation on the inside means there is a damp problem either within the wall or penetrating from the outside. No condensation inside the plastic means we simply have a condensation problem; the condensation is unlikely to form on the plastic because of the insulating layer of air inside.
Analysis of the problem
Rising dampness is indicated by readings which start in the skirting board and continue up anywhere between 150mm and 500mm (approx 6" - 12"); usually there is a fast cut off from a high reading to zero very quickly. there may well be a tide mark corresponding to this cut off.
Penetrating dampness can occur at any height, look for a patch of high readings around the defect.
Condensation is often accompanied by mould growth, black or green in colour, with no real sign of any dampness within the wall, i.e. low meter readings. There are often other key pointers; condensation often occurs around windows, especially single glazed where the temperature drop is large.
Cold spots often give rings or patches of mould; often caused by an isolated defect in solid walls. Chimney breast staining is caused by salts and chemicals being slowly washed through the walls as a result of moisture in the chimney. the moisture can come from poor flashing, poor chimney stack pointing or leaking back boilers. Condensation in the chimney itself is usually the result of a lack of ventilation in the flue.
Belt and braces approach
Firstly, if there are any doubts at all about the problems encountered then before you spend a small fortune on repairs, have the dampness assessed by an expert.
If you have carried out the above analysis, are confident it is a simple condensation issue, consider the Anti-condensation paint. An insulation type coating which helps remove the cause of condensation; it keeps the wall warmer and hence prevents the condensation in the first place. Please note insulation coatings generally have a micro texture and can be over coated with decorative paint which will not affect their Anti-condensation properties. the micro texture, which is barely visible, means you cannot repair the wall in patches; you must coat the whole wall or whole sections of wall. This prevents you simply moving the problem to another patch on for example, an external wall.
On areas prone to penetrating damp, consider a moisture absorption coating, the Anti-damp paint, which will absorb moisture and then release it when the conditions are dryer. Both types of product generally have a film protective additive to stop any further mould growth within the coating. Once you've solved any long term issues around the chimney stack and as part of our 'belt and braces' approach, apply two coats of Anti-damp paint to the chimney breast, even the surrounding walls. This also has the added benefit that it has integral stain blocking properties and will prevent the staining by salts and chemicals returning at a later date.
Both of these products can be painted or wallpapered over as required.
Summary
We would always recommend analysis to discover the root cause of the problem, but, both Anti-damp and Anti-condenstaion paits are a useful tool to have in the battle against dampness and condensation. Even in these modern days where 'one coat of 'one paint does everything' , they should continue to be an integral part of every decorators emergency kit.
Coo-Var technical services can be contacted on [email protected] or by phoning 01482 328053 and selecting the Technical Services option.
Other products for damp / mould / condensation
Contains a special fungicide which inhibits the growth of fungi and mould inside buildings. Its broad spectrum of antifungal activity makes it ideal for most interior walls and ceilings likely to be disfigured by mould. Tested to BS 3900 Part G6.
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